This is an overly general statement, so feel free to disagree, but I want to make a point here. Bland scenes by day can suddenly turn ominous and fascinating at night. To freeze motion during the day, I prefer to use a shutter speed of 1/320th, with 1/160th as my lower threshold. I want the image to look grainy, but I want the grain to look pleasing. Street Photography Is Not a Crime. Incandescent lights cast a warm color. However, one of the times to use a tripod is when you want to capture a busy scene, with lots of people and motion. I hold my day images to a higher standard than my night images when it comes to sharpness. To this end, I seek out directional light sources that are large, and therefore soft. It took me a long time to capture the image above because I wanted the people spread out evenly throughout the entire scene and I also wanted something interesting within the foreground, which is the pose of the woman in the street and the man looking at her. Experiment with slower shutter speeds, such as 1/8th of a second and take a lot of images. Use your best judgment on who to photograph and think about bringing a friend along. Here are my top 10 tips for shooting street photography at night: 1 Find good light. Nout Gons. You should use these different colors to your advantage, emphasizing them to create visually interesting scenes. October 16, 2018 by Robin Wong. If the noise is still bad after noise reduction I will sometimes bring it into Photoshop and add a very slight Gaussian blur. Of course, this idea is not limited to nighttime, but it works very well at night since reflections don’t get “washed out” as easily night as they do by ambient daylight. Cityscapes are lit with a myriad of interesting and colorful light sources, such as lampposts, neon signs, store windows, car lights, and bare bulbs. To deal with this, we use Exposure Compensation, which is a setting often denoted by a little +/- icon. I try to look for light sources that give depth to my image. From daytime to night photography.. Here are 10 tips for night photography to get you thinking about starting your next street photography session at twilight, rather than ending it. street night outdoors highway park forest beach house abstract night Jiarong Deng. It’s important to learn how your camera “thinks.”. With modern digital cameras you can photograph anywhere from ISO 1600 to 6400 with decent or good quality. As a photographer who got his start in the streets of Tokyo, it was inevitable that I would end up photographing mostly at night. When you combine that with the mystery of night time photography, it’s no wonder night street photography is so popular. Well, it’s not much different from daytime (at least the way I do it) but the night leaves a bit less room for error. Pick the right camera settings. Follow these eight useful techniques to help you shoot in the dark. Cameras generally use one of two methods to find focus: “phase detection” or “contrast detection.” Some use a combination of both systems. Generally, all cameras let you choose between an average metering, spot metering, and some options in between. I believe that night shots should look like they were taken at night. You can use a faster shutter speed and include more depth of field in the photo and less grain (noise). Well, actually, the first thing to realize is that it doesn’t think at all, it’s actually quite dumb. You can freeze a moving subject at 1/60th of a second from further away, whereas you will need to use at least 1/125th when close. Margerretta. If you are leaning against a shop with a lit sign behind you, like the man in the photograph above, then as subjects pass you they will be lit with a strong light that has a gorgeous color to it. Next, of course we need to set the aperture. When you look at the histogram of a night image it should be further towards the dark end (left) than a day image. Reserved / Disclaimer, Your email is safe with us. Whether you want to try flash on the street is up to you, but keep in mind that it can easily lead to some confrontations. But even this is very rare for me. This let me get an intuition for the (sometimes subtle) colors of nighttime in a city. That being said, even with the best settings, some of your images will be taken in areas that are too dark to be exposed correctly. Luckily, there are some keys to saving an image like this as long as you are photographing in RAW. If you take a picture of a building or a standard street scene during the day, it can be sort of dull. I don’t want to get too much into the particulars of the settings on each and every camera, but the setting has the following names on the four most common maker’s cameras (and the Ricoh GR because it’s a great street photography camera which I often use): To sum it all up, here are my specific recommendations (settings that I use 99% of the time): Aperture Priority mode, wide/area/matrix metering, max ISO set to 6400, min shutter speed set to 1/250. If you point it at a scene that’s mostly very dark, the camera is likely to overexpose (and vice versa for very bright subjects). People dress in their favorite outfits to go out. This is because most artificial lights are not pure white. That problem is being faced with ordinary scenes that just aren’t very interesting. It’s just not possible to photograph handheld at night otherwise. Faces, of course, are a common target but not always, in which case you can look for other objects that have plenty of contrast. If you are into night street photography, a camera with a larger sensor will be a better choice. Same goes if we set it to -1, but in the other direction. Much is spoken about photographing during the twilight hour, but what about after that? The technical advantage to this is that you do not need to use as fast a shutter speed to capture the motion of subjects when you are further away. If your lens aperture doesn’t go wider than f/4, this is a fantastic way to get around that limitation. Try to search for glass surfaces that do not have much light directly on them. Noise is okay—embrace the noise. I won’t go into the nitty gritty details of these autofocus systems, but some basic awareness of them is important, so you can better strategize what to focus on. Pixabay. With a 28mm or 35mm lens (up to 50mm) it becomes much easier to handhold the camera at slower shutter speeds. Finally, you will need to raise your ISO significantly. If you are planning a trip to NYC, he is offering his new guide free to DPS readers, titled The New York Photographer’s Travel Guide. You can either have the flash do all of the work lighting the scene, where the foreground area within reach of the flash is lit and everything else is dark, or you can set the camera to expose for the scene, similar to what you would do without the flash, and then use the flash to add some fill light to your main subjects in the foreground. Still on the topic of light sources, it’s important to know that artificial lights often add a bit (or a lot) of color to your image. Justin Hamilton. So you can try to predict how it will behave. For example, if your subject is wearing a striped shirt, that’s an easy target for the autofocus system. I also recommend trying out the Fluorescent White Balance setting (many cameras have a few of these) to give images a slight magenta tint, while also turning some lights a bit greener. This is the crucial piece of the puzzle that will let us keep our shutter as fast as we want. So, try to be selective about where you focus. Really, really basically, in both cases the camera will be able to focus more quickly and more accurately if there are some “contrast-y” details for it to examine.